Słubfurt: a European double dream
May-October 2019
Border cities share a unique characteristic: they are both geographically and politically distant from centers of power. This distance makes them ideal places to observe spontaneous forms of coexistence. In 2019, I traveled to the German-Polish border to photograph the unique connection between the border towns of Frankfurt (Oder) and Słubice. Located just an hour by train from Berlin, these towns now appear as a singular entity connected by a blue bridge, despite having been separate for 60 years.
Over the decades, these towns have experienced numerous political events that have profoundly altered their demographics and identities.
Until 1945, both cities were part of the Third Reich.
Post-war agreements shifted the neighborhoods east of the river, now known as Słubice, into Polish territory, forcing German inhabitants to flee overnight to the western bank. Słubice turned into a ghost town, prompting the government to repopulate it with thousands of new inhabitants from eastern Poland. This division persisted for decades, with strict controls and long waits to cross the Oder River bridge. However, this changed in December 2007 when Poland joined the Schengen area, dismantling border posts and fostering closer ties between the two cities. This integration sparked cross-border development in urban planning, services, education, tourism, and creativity.
In 1999, German artist Michael Kurzwelly from Frankfurt (Oder) introduced the concept of “Słubfurt,” a virtual union of the two towns with a real council body. This initiative aimed to combat stereotypes formed over 60 years of separation, promoting a collaborative environment where residents could shape a new, shared identity.
I believe that the story of this specific borderland, marked by past conflicts and demographic upheavals, offers valuable insights into the ongoing discussions about new conflicts at Europe's doorstep. This project was co-financed by a STEP travel grant from the European Cultural Foundation Labs.
Ela and Jeanni cross the bridge over the Oder. Jeanni was born in Frankfurt, while Ela, born in Berlin, has moved there since her mother works at the Viadrina University. They are very close friends and very often cross the bridge together to eat something in Słubice or simply to take a walk attracted by the lush nature on the Polish shore.The remains of the 1924 Art Deco facade of the now permanently closed "Kino Piast" movie theatre in Słubice. The dilapidated logo now reads "No Past," a poignant reflection on the turbulent history of the Polish-German borderlands, symbolizing hope for the future. A poster at the entrance advertises a charity event by "Wielka Orkiestra Świątecznej Pomocy," Poland's largest non-governmental, non-profit charity organization.Michael Kurzwelly wrapped in the flag of Nowa Amerika. A German-born artist, Kurzwelly is the creator of Słubfurt, which he describes as a "construction of reality"—an innovative way to integrate art into public life. Słubfurt boasts real boundaries, a parliament, a postcode, and a currency. It also serves as the capital of Nowa Amerika, a virtual country located on the German-Polish border, with aspirations to encompass other border towns across Europe.A Polish fisherman weighs a 6kg Northern Pike caught in the Oder River in Słubice. Buildings in Frankfurt (Oder) are visible on the opposite bank. The riverbanks are popular daily spots for local fishermen.A child walks along a street in Słubice. Malwina Donarska, project leader at the bbw Education Centre of East Brandenburg, in her office. Located in Frankfurt, the centre is a leader in integrating Poles and migrants from various countries into the German job market. A native Polish speaker, Malwina is also fluent in German and English. She has organized German-Polish projects for years, establishing an extensive network and contributing significantly to the revitalization of the border region.Joanna Józefiak, CEO of Brandmed, the pioneering cross-border medical centre established in Słubice in 2016. The medical staff is proficient in both Polish and German, allowing them to serve patients from both countries. Whether covered by private or public health insurance, all patients can access the full range of treatments offered at the centre.The bridge over the Oder river connecting Frankfurt (Oder) to Słubice photographed from the German side. According to statistics, in 2016, about 2000 Poles lived in Frankfurt (Oder) and about 500 of them cross the bridge every day to go to work.In Słubice, it's now common to see luxury German cars, especially Mercedes, with Polish license plates. At the start of the millennium, the average Polish salary was about one-tenth of the German salary; today, it's roughly one-third. It's estimated that around 2,000 Polish citizens live and work in Frankfurt, with about 500 people crossing the bridge daily to work in Germany.Man standing on the roof of his pick-up in a car wash in Słubice.Robert Reuter, director of the HanseStadtFest festival, also known as "Bunter Hering," since 2009. This largest cross-border summer event takes place between Frankfurt and Słubice, featuring concerts by international artists, DJ sets, historical re-enactments, and fireworks, attracting around 100,000 attendees each year.Słubice. Mural depicting the silhouette of the blue bridge on the Oder incorporating the European flag. The murals appeared on the night between the 26th and 27th April 2019.Dorota Rutka, a librarian, teacher, and coordinator of Polish-German projects at Zbigniew Herbert Comprehensive Secondary School in Słubice. Since 1994, she has encouraged Słubice teenagers to engage in initiatives fostering integration between the Polish and German sides of the Oder. One notable effort, the Building Bridges project, has involved 40 students annually from Poland, Germany, Israel, and Palestine for nearly twenty years.Georg Gauger, born in Stuttgart, is a law student at the European University Viadrina in Frankfurt (Oder). He serves as the chair of the student representatives and a senator. He says, "Frankfurt is a place of possibilities. Rents are affordable, institutions are supportive, and there is plenty of space. Both Frankfurt and Słubice offer room for ideas."Barbara Weiser-Lada is a music teacher, choir director, and music therapist. In 1986, while Poland was still under Communist rule, she founded the first Polish-German choir, bringing together 30 children from Słubice and 30 from Frankfurt (Oder). In 1990, this initiative evolved into the Adoramus Chamber Choir, now involving adults from both sides of the Oder River.Students on the rooftop of Collegium Polonicum in Słubice after a lecture. Collegium Polonicum is a joint institution between European University Viadrina in Frankfurt (Oder) and Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań. It hosts around 500 students from both Poland and Germany, offering programs in law, international affairs, and regional studies. Many courses emphasize Polish-German issues within a European context, and graduates earn a Polish-German double diploma.Tobacco shop in Słubice. The trade in cigarettes, alcohol, and fuel remains a major draw for German customers. Vendors estimate that about 90% of their clientele are Germans, who can save up to 50% compared to prices in Frankfurt (Oder).Arkadiusz Porada, a Polish actor and pedagogue, prepares to return to Frankfurt (Oder) after a show in Cottbus, Germany. Living in Frankfurt (Oder) since 2012, he works as a puppeteer, actor, and theater pedagogue for Theater des Lachens (Theater of Laughter). He is a key figure for local cultural operators in creating shows and educational events in both Germany and Poland.Daniel Fochtmann, in Frankfurt (Oder). He has been organizing the “Art An Der Grenze” (Art at the Border) festival since 2016. This two-week event, held between April and May, features both German and Polish artists and continues to grow each year. However, Daniel notes that communication with Polish artists can be challenging due to the persistent language barrier.Students from the European University Viadrina at fforst House in Frankfurt (Oder), a creative and international student-run housing project that accommodates 40 people from over 15 countries. fforst House serves not only as a university residence but also as a cultural center, fostering synergy among students and residents on both sides of the border.